KMD Wirefree Retro Classics Doren Bra Pattern

By Kiss Me Deadly

  • Want to try sewing your own?
  • Our bestselling wireless bra, slightly tweaked to help with home sewing
  • You will need to buy the fabric, elastic etc and sew this yourself
  • Based on vintage looks, this uses modern bra foam, elastics and stretch fabrics
  • Flexibly sized
  • Broadly speaking if you take a 32 in KMD or PP (a 28 in Katherine Hamilton) then you'd usually be a Small, a 34/30 would often be a medium, and so on
  • If an A cup go a size down, if DD/E go up
  • Pattern developed for personal use by Lou Watson, our technical person and corsetiere since 2015
  • File link shown after order and sent by email - check your spam filter! :)

Should you by any chance use this for commercial production, know this;

we will find you.

I've been asked to add more size information.  
This bra was designed to be pretty flexible on size. It doesn't use a cup shape - it offers some support and lift, but it doesn't separate, so it works more like 'secret support' shelves in garments, if you have ever seen those, or oddly, like sports bras. That means that there's not much point in doing lots of sizes as certainly commercially, for factory making, the advantage in fit is not enough to justify the extra work. Broadly speaking, here's how it usually works in practise;

S - using the plus 4 method (so an underbust measurement of around 26-28 inches), sizes 30C,D,DD,32A,B,C,D,34A
M -  around a 28-30 inch underbust, sizes 32DD, 32E, 34B,34C,34D,36A
L -  around a 30-32 inch underbust, sizes 34DD, 34E, 36B,36C,36D,38A
XL-  around a 32-34 inch underbust, sizes 36DD, 36E, 38B,38C,38D,40A

These are approximate and depends on personal tastes around band tightness, amount of cleavage, and so on.
We do have a 2XL pattern which increases the volume but only adds a little to the band, but it was only put into production late last year so we have been waiting to see customer feedback before including it.

More petite busted customers have been known to use this bra for sports; fuller busted customers not so much. If you prefer a tighter band, or the ratio doesn't work for you, then you can find other patterns from other sellers, or  you can  cut the backband shorter on each side.

I don't recommend this pattern for people where the overbust measurement is more than 9 inches more than the underbust measurement. However, a helpful customer did write a guide to adaptions you can make - originally for factory made versions - here, which may be useful.

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